Disclaimer: Please forgive me if I don't make any sense today, I'm fighting a cold, and it is beating me up mentally.
My good friend Sam over at Meeshi Sense and I have been embarking on a blog journey in tutorials. Since I love her long exposures (and my sick head is ready to go back to bed on this tutorial Tuesday)
I decided to spring this on her at the last minute that I use her long exposure tutorial.
To read more, and submit your entries from the tutorial, go to
Meeshi Sense's Blog
Without further adeu, here is Sam;
Evening readers! Happy tuesday, it is a wonderful new day and each day is an oppoturnity to learn. Tuesdays seemed as good as any other day to run tutorials on questions I get a lot about photography and more specific some of my processing.
One of the most common questioned images I have are my night photography. I'm often greeted with confusion as to how I achieve the stable, well lit, clear images in such low light situations. This inquiry always makes me smile, not because it's a bad one but because its one familiar to me before I started my serious research on the craft some years back. I enjoy being able to sooth the inquiries in others minds that rattled my own, and its soothing to myself to know that others are on the same page.
Long exposure photography is a basic process that can lead into a complex process pending on your visionary goal.
We will start out in the shallow end with our water wings on. The various possibilites with long exposure night photography can be overwhelming if you were to take it all in at once.
You will need the following.
DSLR camera.
Sturdy Tri-pod.
-Position yourself in an area of traffic at night. Set your camera up on your tri-pod and compose the image as you see fit.
-Go into custom functions in your menu. If you have the option to reduce noise for long exposure images you should turn that option on now.
-For those of you who don't want to deal with manual mode and controlling both shutter and aperture you can set your camera to shutter-priority mode on your dial. (TV on your dial on a Canon).
-Set your exposure to 30 seconds. Click your shutter and stand away from the camera to avoid shake from your body.
It may take up to a minute for your camera to display your image if you enabled noise reduction, otherwise thirty seconds after your shutter closes you will see your image.
For more results (you will want a wireless remote or a wire trigger)
-Turn your dial to M for manual.
-Set your shutter speed to BULB. Its past 30 seconds. The end of the shutter sidewalk.
-Start with your aperture set at 9.0 (adjust your aperture up or down to see what affect it has on your photo).
-Set capture mode to remote if you're using a wireless remote.
For wireless remotes just click your button once and it opens your shutter. Canons usually display a timer ticking away the seconds your shutter is open. I know some models of Nikons do not offer this option so a stop watch might be useful, I'm uncertain about sony's and other makes.
-When you want to close your shutter (finishing the photo) click your button on your wireless remote again. Wait for your results.
For a trigger when you go to take your shot you want to slide your button into the lock position and when you want your shutter to close unlock that button.
I hope to see lots of results from this tutorial.
You can email any photos you produce as a result from this tutorial to
meeshi.sense.pho@gmail.com
IMPORTANT for submissions: Title your email Tutorial Results + title of tutorial. Your submission will be posted on the MSP fan page in a tutorial album for all to view and comment on!
Thank you for your participation and enjoy!
